I love exploring a city when it’s first waking up, as the early rays of sun skim the roof tops, long before the crowds of people arrive.

I like being among the first ones through the gates, standing alone in a cavernous courtyard, gazing up at the thick stone walls and shuttered windows, wondering about the history and lives of the people who call this place home.

I especially love it in a city like Dubrovnik, Croatia.

I will tell you more about Dubrovnik in the weeks to come, about her grand history, tragic stories, and the undeniable beauty that has earned her the name: The Pearl of the Adriatic.

But today I’m delighting in her simple moments, the ones that disappear with the first rush of tourists spilling out of buses and cars.

The worker washing his hands at an opulent stone fountain.

A vendor hastening to set up his booth in the cool of the morning.

And a simple stew of vegetables in a rich, paprika broth.

What is your favorite time of day to visit a new city?

This is my contribution to Wanderfood Wednesday at Wanderlust and Lipstick.

Croatian Zafrig

(Adapted from St. Anothony Croatian Catholic Church)

Ingredients:

1/4 cup bacon grease
1/4 olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1/3 cup flour
1 Tbsp Hungarian paprika

Directions:

  1. In saucepan heat bacon grease and oil, add onion and cook until transparent.
  2. Add flour and stir until flour is dark brown.
  3. Add paprika and stir into paste.
  4. Remove from heat and set aside until ready to use.

Croatian Cuspajs

(From St. Anthony Croatian Catholic Church)

Ingredients:

1 head green cabbage, cubed
1 Green pepper, diced
Salt
2 cupsย  cubed potatoes
1 recipe Zafrig

Directions:

  1. Add cabbage and green pepper to soup pot and cover with water. Salt to taste and bring to boil. Cook until tender.
  2. Add potatoes and cook until tender, 10-15 minutes.
  3. Do not drain.
  4. Add Zafrig and simmer for 10 minutes until mixture resembles stew.
  5. NOTE: I did not have cabbage or green pepper, so I made mine with potatoes and green beans. It was fabulous!