by Krista | Oct 28, 2010 | Autumn
There’s something quite lovely about exploring someone else’s garden.There is no work to be done, no weeds I must pull, nothing I need to water or prune. It is pure enjoyment.
Last October my friend Amy and I entered the doors of the Museum Willet-Holthuysen in Amsterdam. The stunning 17th Century canal house was once the home of Abraham Willet and his wife Louisa Willet-Holthuysen.
After her husband died, Louisa stipulated in her will that upon her death, the home and all its contents were to be given to the city of Amsterdam. Since 1895 her wishes have been followed. The home has been turned into a museum showcasing Abraham’s vast collection of paintings, weapons, glass, and other treasures. Click here for a virtual tour.
The house provides a fascinating glimpse into Dutch life for the wealthy in the 1800’s. As much as I enjoyed the opulent bedrooms, marvelous ballroom, and cozy scullery, the garden was my favorite spot. Quiet, peaceful and beautifully laid out, it was an oasis of calm and artistry in the heart of Amsterdam.
What is your favorite garden you’ve ever visited?
by Krista | Mar 9, 2010 | Autumn
Our alarm clocks went off far too early the morning my friend Amy and I were to depart Paris for Amsterdam last October. But up we got, dressed warmly and happily found a taxi just steps outside my brother Ryan’s apartment.
Off we went through the darkened streets to the train station, Gare du Nord, unloaded our bags, and found a spot by a bright pink heater that gave us huddled travelers a distinctive fuschia hue. We were an hour early, but we didn’t mind. Better safe than sorry. Besides, it gave us ample time for people watching, fashion observing and getting the lay of the land. We were intrigued by the number of people wearing Hammer Pants, those voluminous, mid-shin atrocities in bright colors, as well as the military posted around the building, AK-47’s at the ready as they strode through the station, eyes roving the crowd for miscreants.
Our train was delayed several times, but finally it was ready. We joined the milling passengers on the platform as frosty winds tossed skirts and hair. We found our First Class cabin and I couldn’t help but grin to myself in a pinch-me-I-must-be-dreaming sort of way. For as long as I can remember, back when I first became enamored with the idea of train travel through black and white movies and Agatha Christie books, I have longed to travel First Class on a train. I know it’s a silly thing nowadays when such things are easily accessible to all travelers, but for me it was special. We had plush, comfy seats with oodles of legroom and places for all our luggage to fit comfortably. Free Wi-Fi enabled us to upload pictures and Facebook Notes while we hurtled along through the French, Belgian and Dutch countryside. A young African man in an immaculate gray uniform with red trim served us breakfast – lovely creamy cheeses, peppered ham, croissant, fresh ruby red grapefruit and figs with coffee for me, an assortment of sweet cakes with tea for Amy. Deeelicious!
He followed shortly with another basket of croissants for the truly famished. An hour or so later a different man brought us lunch – pasta parcels with white wine from South Africa for me, a cheese sandwich and red wine for Amy. It was such a peaceful, happy way to travel. No stress, no worries, no screaming children or rowdy teenagers or drunk Germans.
We arrived in Amsterdam to brilliant sunshine and oh-so-blustery winds, and made our way to Ryan’s wonderful apartment on the Prinsengracht Straat.
We got ourselves situated then headed out for some afternoon exploring, wending our way along bumpy, cobbled streets over canals and down twisting side streets. Since Amsterdam was not on our initial itinerary we had no maps or guidebooks to chart our path, but we managed to find a Tourist Information booth and Amy secured a map and vague directions to the Rijksmuseum. Sunshine shone coldly down through the still-leafy trees, lending an illusion of warmth but much beauty. The museum was smaller than we’d imagined, but well worth the price of admission. I’ve long been a fan of the Dutch masters, loving their ability to capture exquisite details of feature, attire and expression. I am not so entranced by baubles and knickknacks, but the paintings were fantastic.
After the museum we emerged to the rare combination of being rained on with the sun shining, but we braved the weather and happily wandered charming alleys, squares and streets.
If I can’t have a Hobbit House of my own one day, I want this door, please. 🙂
We stopped in at a bakery and loaded up on amazing bread and pastries. I’m so glad they’re starting to get bread like this around here! 🙂
Content with our initial explorations, we headed back to Ry’s place for a relaxing evening of pjs, popcorn, pastries and old movies like Laura. It was a splendid first day in Amsterdam. 🙂
by Krista | Mar 2, 2010 | Autumn
This past fall I spent a lovely couple of weeks in Europe visiting my brother Ry, his girlfriend Melissa and our sister-in-law Kendra. After a jolly afternoon spent tasting our way through Volksfest in Stuttgart, Germany, we drove to Munich where Ry and Kendra were competing in a 10 km race the next morning.
We arrived very late, and even after our ravenous adventures at Volksfest, we were famished! We walked down a dark street bundled against the icy wind and found a little nook glowing with so much warmth and cheer that we simply had to go in. It was a Persian restaurant filled with happy diners hunkered over all sorts of intriguing dishes.
We secured a spot at one of the last open tables, our seats against a rugged brick wall made perfectly comfortable by the provision of velvet and tapestry pillows.
Dimly lit by jewel-toned lamps, the room felt as cozy as it looked with wine bottles tucked into nooks bordered by old books, the flatware resting in filigreed silver cups on each table, and sugar cubes were mounded in a gold footed bowl.
Even the simple paper placemats had beautiful burgundy scroll work to take them a step above ordinary.
We started with a large platter of stews: savory greens sprinkled with pomegranate seeds, spicy lentils, another legume dish, and cooling cucumber yogurt, all scooped up with warm slabs of flat bread. We nibbled on glossy olives and crisp cucumber spears, slurped a hearty soup, and dug into lamb kebab over saffron rice with a baked tomato. We ended our meal with sparkling water and Persian mint tea and leaned back in our seats sated, content, and happily sleepy.
Early next morning Melissa and I waved good-bye to Ry and Kendra from our oh-so-warm beds as they headed out to run the Munich 10-km race. While they were out hoofing it through the Olympic Park, Melissa and I had a great visit over a leisurely breakfast then made our way to the metro station, figured out how to get tickets and found our train. (It is always such a thrill to me to figure these things out and not get hopelessly bamboozled! :-)) The Olympic Park is a gorgeous place of lakes and canals with velvety green hills and big, leafy trees. We arrived in time to cheer and hoorah our runners – we were so proud of them!! 🙂
There’s talk of us training this year to join them in next year’s race! That sounds perfectly ghastly. 🙂
by Krista | Feb 23, 2010 | Autumn
Last fall I saved enough air miles for a free ticket to Paris! I stayed with my brother Ryan for two whole weeks of rambles along cobbled streets, leisurely dinners with good friends, and blissful solitary writing over espresso at a nearby cafe.
Mid journey, however, we took a weekend to fly to Germany to meet up with Ry’s girlfriend Melissa and our sister-in-law Kendra for a jolly couple of days laughing, talking and exploring.
It was the perfect time of year, not too cool, the hillsides and forests a riot of fiery oranges, reds and golds as autumn crept into winter.
After a scrumptiously lazy Saturday morning we decided to mosey on over to Volksfest – Stuttgart’s answer to Oktoberfest. Fortified with delicious Italian coffees from the PX (my brother Evan is stationed in Germany), we drove off, oohing and aahing at the gorgeous autumn foliage.
We arrived in Stuttgart just before evening, the setting sun casting a warming glow over faces, buildings and countryside.
We joined hordes of Germans clad in traditional dress, and entered the gates of the fairgrounds. We were met by this towering confection festooned with flowers. I thought it looked like a gigantic pepper grinder.
We wandered through the crowds, blending right in with our blond hair and blue eyes, delighting in the leiderhosen, braided locks, and jaunty polka tunes emanating from the bevy of beer houses lining the main drag.
We determined to try every kind of food we possibly could, even if it was just a bite. We downed sausages piled with mustard, devoured hot, giant pretzels, and nibbled corn-on-the-cob drenched in garlic butter.We saw lots of people with these heart-shaped, decorated cookies hanging around their neck or dangling from their wrist, but we passed them up in favor of other delicacies.
Ry and I couldn’t go to Volksfest without sampling the local brew.
Ah, this brother o’ mine makes me laugh 🙂
Nor could we pass up these exquisite candy apples and chocolate-dipped gooseberries and raspberries.
Needless to say we were thoroughly stuffed by the time we left. 🙂
That night we drove to Munich, and one day soon I’ll tell you about the lovely Iranian restaurant we found. 🙂
by Krista | Jan 5, 2010 | Autumn
So last week as I rambled on about Versailles and the amazing desserts we had, I promised I would tell you about The Dinner. 🙂 The time has come! But first I must back up a bit, to my first night in Paris on that trip to visit my brother, Ryan.
It being a fine evening we decided to walk to dinner so off we went, striding along cobbled streets, weaving in and out of fellow diners wending their way to favorite spots. Suddenly we felt a few rain drops on our faces and within seconds it was a torrential downpour!!! Rain dumped from the heavens while a wild wind hurled rain drops straight at us! It was hilarious! Our best efforts at making ourselves beautiful for dinner were dashed and I laughed and Ryan didn’t as we huddled under a teensy overhang that did little to protect us from the elements. Then Ry spotted a phone booth and we scurried over to it just as the sky opened up wider and it REALLY started pouring. Rivers of water gushed down streets that had been bone dry only moments before, lightening flashed and I laughed delightedly as Ry shook his head in amusement at his loony sister. 🙂
Then suddenly it was over. People emerged from doorways and continued on their way as if that crazy storm had never happened. 🙂 We arrived at Aux Crus de Bourgogne looking rather the worse for wear, but were greeted warmly and had a good laugh at our adventure. 🙂
This restaurant is one of Ryan’s favorites. It is just around the corner from his apartment and he eats there at least 2 or 3 times a week. The staff all know him by name and positively beam with delight when we enter. As soon as they know I’m his sister, I’m greeted with a flurry of kisses from perfect strangers and treated like an old family friend.
We had such a great evening! We ate with a couple of Ry’s coworkers, Pat, a hilarious Canadian and Bertrand, a suave Frenchman who is married but, as Ry put it, “he’s never let that stop him.” 😉 We had a great time. The food was delicious and, thanks to the highly amusing Pat (and Ryan, per usual :-)), conversation was a delight. 🙂
We started out with wine, a delicious red, followed by foie gras (a silky smooth bit of heaven!) spread on toast, crudites (including the most gorgeous little radishes!) dipped in grey salt, and various thinly sliced sausages.
For the main course I had beef bourguignon with mashed potatoes in honor of Julia Childs – absolute PERFECTION!! I’ve never tasted anything like it. The beef was fork tender, the sauce rich and dense with the flavors of caramelized vegetables and red wine.
Pat had roast rooster and Ry and Bertrand had beautiful fresh fish deboned and lightly breaded. Three bottles of wine later, we added dessert: divine chocolate mousse and cherries in brandy – unbelievably good! Then Bertrand decided we all needed to have a glass of Calvados and a round of prune liqueur. Bliss. 🙂
And this is why, after our wonderful, wearying day at Versailles, we simply had to return to this little place of comfort and culinary delights.
We were greeted with handshakes and kisses and shown to our usual table. 🙂 Isn’t it marvy to have a “usual table”in Paris? 🙂 We had a splendid time. Our hosts gave us complimentary glasses of chilled white wine then brought our starters: crudites (arugula, frisee, radishes, avocado and boiled egg with house dressing), a platter of wafer thin ham, small bowl of cornichons and a basket of bread. I had every intention of ordering something new, but as soon as I remembered the bouef bourguignon I HAD to have it again. 🙂
Amy ordered the salmon topped with fleur de sel and accompanied by simple noodles, and Ry had filet of beef with mashed potatoes and haricots vert. A lovely red wine and three desserts later, we were ready for bed. Home we went, checking out the latest Paris fashions in the brightly lit windows as we passed.
Julia Child’s Beef Bourguignon
(Adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking)
Ingredients:
One 6-ounce piece of chunk bacon
3 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
3 pounds lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 carrot, sliced
1 onion, sliced
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour
3 cups red wine, young and full-bodied (like Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone or Burgundy)
2 1/2 to 3 1/2 cups brown beef stock
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 cloves mashed garlic
1/2 teaspoon thyme
A crumbled bay leaf
18 to 24 white onions, small
3 1/2 tablespoons butter
Herb bouquet (4 parsley sprigs, one-half bay leaf, one-quarter teaspoon thyme, tied in cheesecloth)
1 pound mushrooms, fresh and quartered
Directions
Remove bacon rind and cut into lardons (sticks 1/4-inch thick and 1 1/2 inches long). Simmer rind and lardons for 10 minutes in 1 1/2 quarts water. Drain and dry.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Sauté lardons in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a flameproof casserole over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon.
Dry beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Heat fat in casserole until almost smoking. Add beef, a few pieces at a time, and sauté until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the lardons.
In the same fat, brown the sliced vegetables. Pour out the excess fat.
Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the beef lightly. Set casserole uncovered in middle position of preheated oven for 4 minutes.
Toss the meat again and return to oven for 4 minutes (this browns the flour and coves the meat with a light crust).
Remove casserole and turn oven down to 325 degrees.
Stir in wine and 2 to 3 cups stock, just enough so that the meat is barely covered.
Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs and bacon rind. Bring to a simmer on top of the stove.
Cover casserole and set in lower third of oven. Regulate heat so that liquid simmers very slowly for 3 to 4 hours. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.
While the beef is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms.
Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons butter with one and one-half tablespoons of the oil until bubbling in a skillet.
Add onions and sauté over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, rolling them so they will brown as evenly as possible. Be careful not to break their skins. You cannot expect them to brown uniformly.
Add 1/2 cup of the stock, salt and pepper to taste and the herb bouquet.
Cover and simmer slowly for 40 to 50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but hold their shape, and the liquid has evaporated. Remove herb bouquet and set onions aside.
Wipe out skillet and heat remaining oil and butter over high heat. As soon as you see butter has begun to subside, indicating it is hot enough, add mushrooms.
Toss and shake pan for 4 to 5 minutes. As soon as they have begun to brown lightly, remove from heat.
When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan.
Wash out the casserole and return the beef and lardons to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms on top.
Skim fat off sauce in saucepan. Simmer sauce for a minute or 2, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2 1/2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly.
If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons stock. Taste carefully for seasoning.
Pour sauce over meat and vegetables. Cover and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times.
Serve in casserole, or arrange stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles or rice, and decorated with parsley.
by Krista | Dec 29, 2009 | Autumn
My brothers are good for many things: teaching me how to shoot a gun, making me laugh until I am clutching my stomach in pain, and (in Ry’s case) providing an exquisite meal in Paris for two very weary girls after a 12-hour walking marathon of Versailles with only a few nibbles and two bottles of water to sustain us.
Amy and I started out bright and early that October morning, the air crisp and cool as we crossed the Seine and headed to the train station.
We arrived in Versailles in the full glow of morning sunshine, walking along the tree-lined drive towards the Chateau. The gold-plated gates were blinding and it was all we could do to keep our eyes open for a quick picture.
After a lengthy fiasco attempting to track down our reserved tickets, we joined the hordes roaming the Chateau. I feel at a loss to adequately describe the soaring ceilings, enormous chandeliers dripping with crystals, mirrored hallways large enough to hold balls, beds with canopies right up to the ceiling topped with ostrich feathers, lush fabrics, carved furniture, fine paintings, inlaid floors, rich curtains tied back with tassels in candy colors, delicate porcelain, molding like fine embroidery, and gold, gold, gold everywhere we looked.
I was staggered to learn the King had 200 courtiers watch him wake up and go to bed, EVERY SINGLE DAY. I can’t imagine. I know there are perks to being royalty, but I can’t fathom a life with nary a moment of privacy ever. Just the thought made me want to duck into a side room for some alone time.
Everything was exquisite, but after a while it got too much, my eyes just couldn’t take in anymore, and it was a relief to escape to the gardens with soothing stretches of lawn punctuated by topiary, statuary and flower beds overflowing with the last of summer’s glory.
We ambled down the wide steps to the Grand Canal and up cobbled boulevards to the Grand and Petit Trianon. It was a gorgeous walk with stunning vistas of woods and water at every turn. The buildings were beautiful, but on a less opulent scale than the Chateau, changing from a frenzy of gold and crystal to white molded woodwork with lush tassels to simple stonework and subdued tones.
In fact, the farther we got into the property the more simplistic the domiciles became. Suddenly we caught our breath as over the rise of a hill we saw the Queen’s Hamlet, a rustic village built for Marie Antoinette where she could go to play milkmaid. The village instantly became my favorite place, a fairytale setting on the edge of a lake.
A stone bridge crossed a stream, geometrically laid out gardens were filled with cabbages and squash, lovely pumpkins in orange, dark green and pale cream. The cottages were festooned with pots of cheery geraniums and dripped with climbing vines in gorgeous shades of red. Vine-covered arbors led outside the village, and entering one we discovered the whole thing was a grape vine! The sun glowed through the green leaves and the dusty purple globes begged to be tasted. I obliged. 🙂
I could quite happily have lived there. It was so peaceful, so carefree, and I felt an ache inside as I thought of Marie, only 13 when she was betrothed to a man she’d never met, yanked from her beloved Austria and plunked down into the French court far from everything and everyone she loved. No wonder she adored her little hamlet so much. It truly is escapism at its best.
By the end of the day Amy and I were hobbling like old women, so stiff and sore from lugging cameras and bags and water bottles over acres of marble floors and cobbled walkways. Ryan met us at his apartment then led us to his favorite Paris restaurant where we were greeted warmly with handshakes and Frenchy kisses.
Sinking into our seats we settled in for a wondrous meal (which I will tell you about another day). The wine relaxed our aching muscles and soon our groanings were forgotten as we laughed and swapped tales about our day.
After that amazing meal (and I can’t wait to tell you about it!) our lovely waitress forced dessert upon us, not once, but THRICE! How could we say no to chocolate mousse made by her very own hands? Or to pear clafouti made from pears grown in her own backyard? And honestly, could we offend her by declining a shimmering goblet full of brandied cherries? I think not!
Hours later, sated in body and spirit, we strolled home and fell fast asleep. Good night, Versailles.
Almond Pear Clafouti
(From Epicurious)
Ingredients:
4 firm-ripe pears, peeled, cored, and sliced
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3/4 cup sliced blanched almonds
3/4 cup milk
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
3 large eggs, beaten lightly
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon almond extract (preferably pure)*
3/4 cup self-rising cake flour
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400°F. and butter a 10-by 2-inch round (1-quart capacity) baking dish. In the dish toss the pears gently with the lemon juice and spread them evenly in the dish.
In a blender grind fine 1/2 cup of the almonds, add the milk, 6 tablespoons of the butter, the eggs, the vanilla, and the almond extract, and blend the mixture until it is smooth.
In a bowl whisk together the flour, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and a pinch of salt and stir in the milk mixture, stirring until the batter is combined well.
Pour the batter over the pears, drizzle it with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and sprinkle it with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and remaining 1/4 cup almonds.
Bake the clafouti in the middle of the oven for 40 minutes, or until it is golden brown, and let it cool on a rack for 15 minutes. Serve the clafouti warm.
