I haven’t shared too much about my spring road trip through Albania yet, but I hope to rectify that in the very near future.
I can’t wait to show you the gorgeous but wild back country, tell you stories of our adventures driving through this country without a working map or GPS, and the stark remnants of a history marked by war and economic upheaval.
Albania was the country hardest to get into and out of, the one place I was truly scared, and by far one of the best adventures I’ve ever had.
Today I want to give you a tiny glimpse of this wondrous country.
It was a gorgeously sunny morning in Australia as my friend and I loaded up the ute with towels, water bottles and sunscreen for a day at the beautiful Gold Coast. (Click here to see pictures!)
Rather than just drive straight to the beach, we decided to leave bright and early and mosey along at our leisure, stopping wherever took our fancy.
In the small town of Beaudesert, Queensland we decided it was high time for a coffee break and found the perfect spot at Central Perk Coffee.
Run by a very cheery man, Central Perk Coffee was a tidy spot featuring a shiny glass case filled with all manner of tempting goodies. We perused the offerings and finally settled on Sticky Date Cake with Caramel Sauce for my friend…
…and a moist and tender slice of banana bread for me. Warm and topped with cream cheese frosting and melted butter, it was a marvelous addition to my morning.
One of my favorite things to drink in Australia is iced coffee. None of this plain coffee with ice cubes business, it is a decadent confection of coffee, milk, ice cream, whipped cream and syrup that makes me swoon every time.
After our lovely break we continued on our merry way, only deviating from our path when I saw a sign for a historical point of interest called the Laheys Canungra Tramway Tunnel. I couldn’t resist such a title and we simply had to stop.
The tunnel is located a short five minute walk from the road down a path that meanders through the forest. We were serenaded by thousands of cicadas as we walked. I couldn’t see a single one but they made a deafening chorus that made you feel like your brain was buzzing.
The Laheys Canungra Tramway Tunnel is part of a large scale, privately constructed and operated tramway constructed in 1900 by the Lahey brothers, immigrants from Ireland. It was used as part of the tramway to transport timber from the valleys in the south up and down the very steep hills to their mill in Canungra. The total length of track laid amounted to 26½ km and in 1915 alone, 15,000 tons of logs were hauled to the mill.
Belts of native vegetation were preserved alongside the tram tracks, and the route was known for its beauty as it curved among waterfalls, ferns and thick scrub. Locals used it for their everyday transportation needs. Some folks simply sat atop the logs, while children used the tramway for rides to school and picnickers hitched rides to their destinations.
Laheys Canungra Tramway Tunnel operated from the early 1900’s until about 1930. The tunnel was later used as a munitions dump during World War II.
The tunnel is empty now, large, dark, and wonderfully cool with a lovely breeze blowing through. It’s a nice respite on a blazing hot day. The ground is fairly level and safe for exploring, though you’ll want to watch out for the occasional puddle hiding in the darkness.
Laheys Canungra Tramway Tunnel
Directions: Head out of Canungra along Beaudesert Nerang Road. Watch for a sign and pull into the parking area off to the right. Follow the path down to the tunnel and a small picnic area.
What is your favorite dessert to have on a coffee break?
As I write to you tonight the wind is howling. I can hear it shrieking around corners and sending leaves and branches skittering across my terrace. It sounds very cold and stormy and I’m so glad to be safe and warm indoors. It makes me think of a snippet of poetry I read earlier this evening:
Brew me a cup for a winter’s night. For the wind howls loud and the furies fight – M.T. Antrim –
On nights like this it’s lovely to remember other winter days when the sun shone brilliantly, the sky was clear, and I got to walk through the sun-drenched countryside.
My neighbor was pottering in his garden next to the barn, preparing the soil for spring days hopefully not too far away. It makes me smile when I walk past and his cat is sitting in the driveway, gazing magisterially over the fields as if he owns the place.
I left the main road and ambled into the woods, delighted when I looked up and saw this splendid red barn through the trees. It made me think of barn dances and tables laden with pies and cakes, friends and neighbors gossiping happily as children run about underfoot. I took a deep breath of cold air, smiling at hints of woodsmoke and cedar.
As I walked back home I began craving comfort food, something warm and cozy and naughty. What better than Belgian-style French Fries tossed with minced garlic and parsley? I set the oil on to heat while I cut the potatoes, soaked them in salt water, and patted them dry. After a 6 minute dunking in sizzling hot oil, I drained them, salted them well, and cooled them before putting them in the oil for two more minutes to crisp and brown. While they were still hot I added a couple spoonfuls of finely minced garlic, a sprinkling of parsley, a bit more salt and pepper, then sat down with a dollop of mayonnaise for dipping.
They were everything I hoped for. Alas, I was so ravenous that I forgot to take a picture, and “had” to make them again the next day to rectify my mistake. Poor me. I highly recommend making this mistake. 😉
What’s your favorite thing to eat after a winter walk?
Belgian French Fries with Garlic
Ingredients:
3-4 potatoes vegetable oil salt pepper dried parsley minced garlic to taste mayonnaise
Directions:
Heat oil in deep saucepan over medium-high heat about 5-7 minutes.
Slice potatoes into finger-lengths, let soak in salt water a few minutes.
Remove from salt water and pat dry.
Place dry potatoes in oil and let cook for 5-6 minutes.
Remove with slotted spoon and let drain and cool on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt right away.
When cool, return potatoes to hot oil and cook for 1-2 minutes more until they are golden brown.
Remove with slotted spoon and let drain on paper towels. Salt and pepper to taste.
I love my three brothers, and I love hanging out with them in their homes now that they’re all grown up with fabulous women and places of their own.
For Christmas this year I got to visit my middle brother Evan and his wife, my dear sister-in-law Kendra at their home in Germany. We spent four marvelous days lounging about playing cards, Settlers of Catan, watching movies and going for hikes in the snow. And every morning we got to eat the amazing breakfasts they’d put together.
While we sipped big mugs of creamy coffee, Kendra would make a gorgeous fruit platter of some kind, a light dusting of sugar glittering in the candlelight.
Then she and Ev would labor over the stove making crispy hash browns, creamy eggs, whole grain toast and a whole lotta bacon. Mmm, mmm!
Around noon one of us would decide that maybe, just maybe we should get out of our pjs and go for a walk. It was the snowiest Christmas imaginable in Germany, and we had such fun bundling up and trekking through knee-high drifts or warily stepping our way over hard-packed stretches that squeaked under our boots and were as slick as ice.
Some days it was too wicked cold even for us Canadians, so we’d happily stay warm and toasty inside and just enjoy the view.
What is your favorite breakfast on a snowy morning?
Normally I hate a long layover. It doesn’t matter what airport it’s in, there are few things more tedious than wiling away hours on uncomfortable seats, eating terrible food, and wishing more than anything to be tucked into a nice warm bed or taking a hot shower.
For my recent trip to Australia, I didn’t discover until after I had purchased my steal-of-a-deal ticket that I had two long layovers at the Nadi, Fiji airport: one for 15.5 hours, the other for 17.5 hours.
Now I love many things about Fiji – the people, the climate, the beauty – but the airport is definitely not one of them. There is one waiting area surrounded by the ubiquitous duty free and souvenir shops that at best can occupy about an hour of your time. The few places to eat may or may not be open and if you request anything hot, be prepared to wait at least 30 minutes while it is cooked elsewhere and brought bound tightly in plastic wrap by frazzled but smiling women.
It is not the place to spend 17.5 hours.
Thankfully that is not the only option.
When you exit any international flight in Nadi you are greeted by a jolly group of Fijian men in flamboyant shirts singing their hearts out in joyous welcome. At this point you can take a left to transit to your next flight or hang a right and get in line for Customs. Take the right. As the musicians serenade you, make sure you have your passport and Customs card handy. Once your passport is stamped simply pick up your luggage, get some Fiji dollars from the handy bank machine near the luggage carousel, head through Customs and grab a taxi. You’re all set for a mini-Fiji adventure.
Fiji has numerous 3 and 4 star resorts a short taxi ride from the airport. Many of them have day rooms available for a reduced rate. This will allow you full use of a room and the resort facilities (including beaches, swimming pools, and restaurants) during your stay. Since most international flights to Nadi are red-eyes arriving around 5 a.m., the use of a day room is pure bliss, giving you a chance to sleep, shower, eat real food, and explore the beaches and countryside of Fiji before continuing your journey. Make sure you call ahead to specifically reserve a day room since availability is limited.
I stayed at two resorts on my layovers.
The first was Sonaisali Island Resort, about a 30 minute drive from the airport. I stayed in an Oceanview Bure for $252.00 Fiji dollars, which works out to about $138.60 US. The taxi ride from the airport was about $35 Fiji dollars ($20 US) each way. The short boat ride to the island was free and made a crossing every 15 minutes.
View from the front porch of my room at the Sonaisali Island Resort
(it was pouring rain at the time, but you really could see the ocean when it stopped).
The second was The Westin Denarau Island Resort and Spa, about a 25 minute drive from the airport. I stayed in a Tropical Garden View Room for $200 Fiji dollars, equaling about $110 US. The taxi ride to and from the airport was also $35 Fiji dollars (about $20 US) each way.
The view from my room at The Westin Denarau Island Resort & Spa.
Both resorts were beautiful and graciously let me into my room around 7 a.m. (normal check-in time is 10 a.m.) and let me stay until 6 p.m.
Eating out at Fiji resorts is really expensive. I made sure to eat on the airplane beforehand and get a cheap bite at the airport after, only splurging on one good meal.
I settled on breakfast at the Sonaisali Island Resort. For $38 Fiji dollars ($21 US) I had unlimited trips to a buffet breakfast that included fresh fruits, cereals, made-to-order omelets, and a large hot food section with items such as baked tomatoes, baked beans, potato cakes, and ham, plus chutneys, sauces, and lots of juice and coffee. The dining room faces the ocean with beautiful views of the pool, palm trees and rolling waves.
At The Westin Denarau Island Resort & Spa I opted for lunch, ordering room service for the first time in my life. 🙂 I had succulent ahi tuna with Fijian green beans, rice with crispy shallots, and a smidge of lettuce for around $80 Fiji dollars ($44 US). My dining room was my patio where I could eat in happy solitude with views of the ocean and tropical plants.
The grand total for two full days in Fiji was about $400. That may seem like a lot, but it was worth every penny, worth every restaurant dinner, movie ticket, and shopping trip I gave up in order to save enough. It was much better than two days in an airport, spending nearly $200 on crummy food, feeling exhausted and dirty with nothing to do but wander the same halls for over 30 hours.
Instead I had two glorious days in one of the most beautiful places in the world. In addition to comfy beds, hot showers, delicious food, and first class treatment, I also got to stroll gorgeous beaches, walk through the exquisitely beautiful Fijian countryside, swim in the South Pacific, snooze in a hammock, and meet some of the loveliest people imaginable.
What would be your ideal way to spend a one day layover?
My favorite part of each day in Australia was morning. I would wake early to this view, stare out the window for a while then clamber out of bed and wander out to the back porch for a sit. Twas the perfect way to wake up.
If ever my friends wondered where I was, they could find me perched there looking out at the gum trees and wildflowers, listening to the kookaburras and other Aussie birds twittering away.
Nearly every morning I had breakfast out there: freshly brewed coffee with milk and wildflower honey, and pristine white bowls filled with all sorts of scrumptious Aussie fruits like mild paw paw, tart passionfruit, and sweet mangoes.
I loved gutting the paw paws with all those strange looking seeds inside, then scooping out one juicy spoonful after another of sweet, fragrant fruit.
I learned to make a drink that I’m now addicted to: 1 part mango juice to 8 parts cold club soda. Delicious and so refreshing, especially in hot weather.
Breakfast was always on the back porch, rain or shine. The dogs, Whombat and Fletcher, would join us, nuzzling in for pats before settling down for a snooze. I got to drink coffee out of my very own personalized mug. If you look at the mug below, you’ll know my Aussie nickname. 🙂
I took a short little video for you of the view from the back porch on one particularly rainy day.
