It’s a glorious thing to get off a red eye flight and crawl into a wondrously comfy bed only to wake up a few hours later to the tropical beauties of Fiji.
That’s just what happened to me on a beautiful layover in Nadi, Fiji on my way back to the US from Australia in January. Stretching luxuriously I made myself get up, slipped into one of my favorite sundresses, grabbed sunglasses and camera and headed out for a stroll along the beaches of Denarau Island.
Denarau Island is renowned for it’s opulent resorts, golf courses, fine restaurants, and shopping, but my favorite place is the beach. The lovely thing about staying at any of the resorts on the island is that you get access to all of them: their beaches, restaurants, even their swimming pools. It’s perfect for a nice long walk from one beach to the next.
I made my way past hammocks swinging in the sea breezes, kids shrieking happily in the surf, and businessmen snoozing in their lounge chairs. I walked and walked, the waves lapping at my ankles, sun beating down wondrously, until the resorts ended and a bit of wilderness began.
I was delighted by the flowering vines encroaching onto the sand, hundreds of vibrant pink flowers stretching up to the sun.
I spent a blissful time imagining how lovely it would be to own a stretch of beach like this. To build a simple cottage with huge windows open to the wind and a wide wrap around porch from which to watch sunsets and storms alike. It was a splendid dream.
After a bit I wandered back to civilization, stopping to watch a boy fishing from shore. When he caught me observing him I smiled and he ran up to me and asked excitedly, “Did you see them?” I shook my head so he dashed a ways down the beach, pulled off a bit of dough from a bag and threw it into the water. Within seconds fish were wriggling just below the surface, nibbling their treat. We both grinned and he went back to his fishing, pleased as punch to have an audience.
Normally I hate a long layover. It doesn’t matter what airport it’s in, there are few things more tedious than wiling away hours on uncomfortable seats, eating terrible food, and wishing more than anything to be tucked into a nice warm bed or taking a hot shower.
For my recent trip to Australia, I didn’t discover until after I had purchased my steal-of-a-deal ticket that I had two long layovers at the Nadi, Fiji airport: one for 15.5 hours, the other for 17.5 hours.
Now I love many things about Fiji – the people, the climate, the beauty – but the airport is definitely not one of them. There is one waiting area surrounded by the ubiquitous duty free and souvenir shops that at best can occupy about an hour of your time. The few places to eat may or may not be open and if you request anything hot, be prepared to wait at least 30 minutes while it is cooked elsewhere and brought bound tightly in plastic wrap by frazzled but smiling women.
It is not the place to spend 17.5 hours.
Thankfully that is not the only option.
When you exit any international flight in Nadi you are greeted by a jolly group of Fijian men in flamboyant shirts singing their hearts out in joyous welcome. At this point you can take a left to transit to your next flight or hang a right and get in line for Customs. Take the right. As the musicians serenade you, make sure you have your passport and Customs card handy. Once your passport is stamped simply pick up your luggage, get some Fiji dollars from the handy bank machine near the luggage carousel, head through Customs and grab a taxi. You’re all set for a mini-Fiji adventure.
Fiji has numerous 3 and 4 star resorts a short taxi ride from the airport. Many of them have day rooms available for a reduced rate. This will allow you full use of a room and the resort facilities (including beaches, swimming pools, and restaurants) during your stay. Since most international flights to Nadi are red-eyes arriving around 5 a.m., the use of a day room is pure bliss, giving you a chance to sleep, shower, eat real food, and explore the beaches and countryside of Fiji before continuing your journey. Make sure you call ahead to specifically reserve a day room since availability is limited.
I stayed at two resorts on my layovers.
The first was Sonaisali Island Resort, about a 30 minute drive from the airport. I stayed in an Oceanview Bure for $252.00 Fiji dollars, which works out to about $138.60 US. The taxi ride from the airport was about $35 Fiji dollars ($20 US) each way. The short boat ride to the island was free and made a crossing every 15 minutes.
View from the front porch of my room at the Sonaisali Island Resort
(it was pouring rain at the time, but you really could see the ocean when it stopped).
The second was The Westin Denarau Island Resort and Spa, about a 25 minute drive from the airport. I stayed in a Tropical Garden View Room for $200 Fiji dollars, equaling about $110 US. The taxi ride to and from the airport was also $35 Fiji dollars (about $20 US) each way.
The view from my room at The Westin Denarau Island Resort & Spa.
Both resorts were beautiful and graciously let me into my room around 7 a.m. (normal check-in time is 10 a.m.) and let me stay until 6 p.m.
Eating out at Fiji resorts is really expensive. I made sure to eat on the airplane beforehand and get a cheap bite at the airport after, only splurging on one good meal.
I settled on breakfast at the Sonaisali Island Resort. For $38 Fiji dollars ($21 US) I had unlimited trips to a buffet breakfast that included fresh fruits, cereals, made-to-order omelets, and a large hot food section with items such as baked tomatoes, baked beans, potato cakes, and ham, plus chutneys, sauces, and lots of juice and coffee. The dining room faces the ocean with beautiful views of the pool, palm trees and rolling waves.
At The Westin Denarau Island Resort & Spa I opted for lunch, ordering room service for the first time in my life. 🙂 I had succulent ahi tuna with Fijian green beans, rice with crispy shallots, and a smidge of lettuce for around $80 Fiji dollars ($44 US). My dining room was my patio where I could eat in happy solitude with views of the ocean and tropical plants.
The grand total for two full days in Fiji was about $400. That may seem like a lot, but it was worth every penny, worth every restaurant dinner, movie ticket, and shopping trip I gave up in order to save enough. It was much better than two days in an airport, spending nearly $200 on crummy food, feeling exhausted and dirty with nothing to do but wander the same halls for over 30 hours.
Instead I had two glorious days in one of the most beautiful places in the world. In addition to comfy beds, hot showers, delicious food, and first class treatment, I also got to stroll gorgeous beaches, walk through the exquisitely beautiful Fijian countryside, swim in the South Pacific, snooze in a hammock, and meet some of the loveliest people imaginable.
What would be your ideal way to spend a one day layover?
I awoke one morning in Fiji to find the grass outside my room sprinkled with these stunning flowers. It’s the sort of thing you dream about but never see, and I was utterly charmed.
A couple of weeks ago my friend Corrie encouraged me to start jotting down my dreams every week. Not the ones my vivid imagination conjures up at night, but the dreams that are closest to my heart, the things I would do, try and experience if I was allowed to do anything in the world.
Yesterday, as the sun finally came out in rainy Washington, I sat in my armchair in a beam of sunshine and began to write.
I confess it was hard at first. Each thought that came into my head was immediately squelched by an “oh that’s not very practical” or “you don’t have the money for that” or “so and so wouldn’t approve at all!” But I kept shushing those naysayer thoughts until my deepest desires bobbed happily to the surface. From the silly to the sublime they came, and soon I couldn’t write fast enough.
Suddenly I noticed I was grinning like a Cheshire cat. 🙂
How lovely it was to let my imagination go wild and picture such good things as being debt-free and healthy or quirky things like building my own adult-sized tree house and traveling First Class on the Orient Express while sipping Earl Grey tea and reading Agatha Christie.
Some of my dreams may never happen, but simply writing them down got my mind whirling about ways to maybe, just maybe, make them happen. I feel inspired, creative, and excited about the future, whatever it may hold. Thank you, Corrie.
Do you have any “silly” dreams? Is there one thing you could do today to get closer to making that dream a reality?
It was a Random Torrential Downpour sort of day in Fiji and I decided that rain or no rain, I was going for a walk. And not just any sort of walk. I wanted to walk in the country, away from the beautiful but polished environs of the resort to see how real people live in Fiji.
So I donned my walking shoes and comfy sundress and asked the boatman to ferry me across the straight so I could stroll along country roads.
I hadn’t gone far before the skies opened and dumped a mighty torrent. It fell heavy and warm and felt absolutely wonderful after a day spent in airports and airplanes. I strolled past boat landings and fields, tidy little farms and seemingly abandoned ones.
I love how Fijian homes are painted in gloriously bright colors, surrounded by flowering trees and bushes, their wide welcoming porches beckoning passersby in for a chat.
The countryside is breathtaking. Lush and green dotted with palm trees and checkered by sugar cane fields and family gardens.
In spite of the pouring rain I was not alone on my walk. Others strode cheerily along in their flip-flops, greeting me with beaming smiles and a hearty “Bula!” as we passed.
By the time I got back I was well and truly drenched, much to the amusement of the taxi drivers I had to squelch past on my way to the boat. But it was worth it!
Good morning, luvs! I am finally home in my little apartment again after nearly 6 weeks of travel. Phew! It has been a beautiful adventure and I’m so grateful for every person I met and experience I had, but golly, am I ever tired. 🙂
I am back in the cold north, trying to adjust to time changes, work schedules, and the switch from summery Australia to wintry Washington. Brrr! Sundresses are being packed away, sweaters, tights and woolly socks brought out to warm my bones.
This weekend I slept a lot, read a lot and cooked a lot. I roasted tomatoes, made sausage bean soup, roasted veggie salad with shredded chicken, and a creamy chicken curry with cilantro and lime. Mmm. I start work again first thing in the morning and it feels good to have all my lunches made and packed in the fridge, ready for the week.
Tonight as I huddled under my quilt and listened to the icy wind rushing through the trees, I pulled out my Fiji pictures, remembering the warm winter rains drenching the ground and sprinkling the flowers with glistening drops.
I have no idea what these lovely, spidery ones are, but aren’t they splendid?
I like these cheery yellow ones. I fully expected them to start trumpeting at me. 🙂
I’m so glad to be in regular contact with you again. I will leave you with a short video of the rain falling outside my porch in Fiji.
