Hiking near Bologna and Real Italian Minestrone Soup

Hiking near Bologna and Real Italian Minestrone Soup

Good morning, luvs!

After my Bolognese friend Maddalena and I explored bombed out villas in a beautiful Italian park near Bologna, we emerged from the tree line to see this stunning view.

Italian regional park

I could hardly believe it! The colors were so rich and glorious in the late Indian Summer sunshine, looking more like a painting than a real life scene. The sun was warm on our skin and we soaked it in little knowing that the next day summer would flee for good, replaced by bitterly cold winds and drenching rain.

gate at sunset

We shared the trails of Parco della chiusa or Parco Talòn  in Casalecchio with Italian couples strolling hand in hand, young moms visiting animatedly with their friends, and joggers huffing and puffing up the steep incline.

And it was steep! Instead of sticking to the gentle incline of the main trails, we took a deep breath and headed straight up the hillside, bent almost double to keep from sliding down the dusty pathway.

rosehips

By the time we reached the top we were wheezing and gasping like the joggers we had seen earlier, laughing as we made our quivering legs take those final steps to the top.

girls hiking in ItalyThe view was worth every shaky step and near tumble and we stood for a while enjoying it thoroughly as we filled our lungs with fresh air.

sunset gate

After a bit we continued on our way, the going much easier now that we were crossing the ridge line instead of laboring up steep paths.

It was my first time visiting Italy in the Fall and how I loved crunching through the leaves, finding bushes laden with ripe berries, and feeling beautifully warm after my chilly summer in Amsterdam.

country road in Italy

We didn’t actually know where we were, so we just followed whatever trail took our fancy, assuming that one of them would take us home again. Along the way we found ivy covered walls and this wonderful old villa glowing warmly in the setting sun.

Italian country villa

At the villa we picked up a couple of friends, two little kitties – a black and a gray – who gamboled after us, stopping often to roll in the dust-filled potholes and arch their bodies against our legs.

Italian kittens

All too soon it was time to head home for dinner. We drove through the golden hills back to Maddalena’s house, and sat down to a perfect meal of fresh bread and homemade minestrone soup. It was nothing like the glutinous stuff I’ve had out of cans with soggy bits of pasta floating in a sea of overcooked vegetables. Nope, this was marvelous, a delicate vegetable soup drizzled with good quality olive oil and topped with freshly grated Parmesan.

Maddalena was surprised I wanted the recipe. To her it is simple country food, a hodgepodge of whatever leftover vegetables she might find in her fridge. But to me it was something special.

Real Italian MinestroneIt was minestrone soup as it was meant to be. A delicious end to a wonderful day.

sunset in Italy

What is your favorite meal after a nice, long walk?

Real Italian Minestrone Soup

Maddalena and her aunts always use a pressure cooker to make minestrone soup. They add vegetable broth, salt and pepper and an assortment of chopped vegetables. While the combinations are endless, they do have certain traditions concerning the vegetables.

Ingredients:

hunk of Parmesan cheese
good quality olive oil
chopped vegetables (see below)

Vegetables that SHOULD be Included:

carrots
potatoes
beans (small dried)
green beans
celery
zucchini
spinach

Vegetables that CAN be included:

tomato
broccoli

Vegetables that MUST NOT be included:

fennel
aubergine (eggplant)

Directions:

  1. Add all ingredients to pressure cooker and cook for 15 minutes until all vegetables are tender.
  2. Ladle into bowls, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with freshly grated Parmesan.

 

Bombs, Villas and Hiking in Italy

Bombs, Villas and Hiking in Italy

As much as I love seeing gorgeous old buildings and ambling down narrow cobbled alleyways in Italian cities, one of my favorite ways to get to know a place is to go hiking.

When I visited my friend Maddalena in Italy this fall, she took me on a gorgeous hike just as the sun was setting over the russet hills outside Bologna. We entered the gates of the park in time to see locals gathered around a bright red tractor to pick up some last minute produce for their dinners.

Bologna park

It was such a peaceful time of day to go for a walk. Mothers pushed prams and chattered happily with their friends, and old men parked themselves on benches to watch the goings on of their neighbors.

Italian hiking trail

Our first stop was at the ruins of a once splendid villa rising golden and majestic in the late afternoon sun.

Italian villa ruins

Once a stunning place of colonnades, soaring ceilings and a flourishing orangerie, the villa managed to survive all of World War II until it was bombed on the very last day of the war.

Maddalena and I were just discussing how we wished some rich personage would come along to restore it when she spotted a sign saying that restoration was actually beginning. Hooray!

Old black and white pictures showed us what the villa used to look like. Isn’t it beautiful and grand? Like something out of an old Hollywood movie. 🙂

Italian bombed villa

I can’t wait to visit in a few years to see the villa as it ought to be: tall, stately, with native Italian plants thriving once again.

Italian Graffiti

We continued on our way, Maddalena telling me what it was like in Italy during the war years. As in the rest of Europe, times were very difficult for the local population.

Unlike the rest of Europe, Italy had the dubious position of being a former ally of Germany. For several years the Nazi’s had lived peaceably in Italy, using the country as a base of operations, but overnight they went from being friends to enemies.

The results were horrifying for the Italians. Murder, starvation, and fear were daily struggles, and many lost their lives in the years that followed.

Italian park trail

It was amazing to walk these paths, feeling completely safe and peaceful, knowing that just a few years ago Resistance fighters and Nazi’s fought a constant game of cat and mouse.

Italian forest

It feels so peaceful now.

 

Italian park bench

So warm, quiet, and safe.

 

Italy at sunset

But there are still reminders of those days in the crumbling, bombed out villas scattered throughout the park.

I’m glad people are investing the time and money in restoring them, but I’m also glad I got to see them as they are. Vivid reminders of the preciousness of peace and freedom.

Abandoned Italian villa

Soon our trail left the woods and wended up into the hills, heavenly sunshine warming us after the cool shade of the forest.

hiking trails in Italy

Tomorrow I’ll show you glorious views worth every step of our uphill trek.

What is a meaningful historical site you’ve visited?