by Krista | Dec 29, 2009 | Autumn
My brothers are good for many things: teaching me how to shoot a gun, making me laugh until I am clutching my stomach in pain, and (in Ry’s case) providing an exquisite meal in Paris for two very weary girls after a 12-hour walking marathon of Versailles with only a few nibbles and two bottles of water to sustain us.
Amy and I started out bright and early that October morning, the air crisp and cool as we crossed the Seine and headed to the train station.
We arrived in Versailles in the full glow of morning sunshine, walking along the tree-lined drive towards the Chateau. The gold-plated gates were blinding and it was all we could do to keep our eyes open for a quick picture.
After a lengthy fiasco attempting to track down our reserved tickets, we joined the hordes roaming the Chateau. I feel at a loss to adequately describe the soaring ceilings, enormous chandeliers dripping with crystals, mirrored hallways large enough to hold balls, beds with canopies right up to the ceiling topped with ostrich feathers, lush fabrics, carved furniture, fine paintings, inlaid floors, rich curtains tied back with tassels in candy colors, delicate porcelain, molding like fine embroidery, and gold, gold, gold everywhere we looked.
I was staggered to learn the King had 200 courtiers watch him wake up and go to bed, EVERY SINGLE DAY. I can’t imagine. I know there are perks to being royalty, but I can’t fathom a life with nary a moment of privacy ever. Just the thought made me want to duck into a side room for some alone time.
Everything was exquisite, but after a while it got too much, my eyes just couldn’t take in anymore, and it was a relief to escape to the gardens with soothing stretches of lawn punctuated by topiary, statuary and flower beds overflowing with the last of summer’s glory.
We ambled down the wide steps to the Grand Canal and up cobbled boulevards to the Grand and Petit Trianon. It was a gorgeous walk with stunning vistas of woods and water at every turn. The buildings were beautiful, but on a less opulent scale than the Chateau, changing from a frenzy of gold and crystal to white molded woodwork with lush tassels to simple stonework and subdued tones.
In fact, the farther we got into the property the more simplistic the domiciles became. Suddenly we caught our breath as over the rise of a hill we saw the Queen’s Hamlet, a rustic village built for Marie Antoinette where she could go to play milkmaid. The village instantly became my favorite place, a fairytale setting on the edge of a lake.
A stone bridge crossed a stream, geometrically laid out gardens were filled with cabbages and squash, lovely pumpkins in orange, dark green and pale cream. The cottages were festooned with pots of cheery geraniums and dripped with climbing vines in gorgeous shades of red. Vine-covered arbors led outside the village, and entering one we discovered the whole thing was a grape vine! The sun glowed through the green leaves and the dusty purple globes begged to be tasted. I obliged. 🙂
I could quite happily have lived there. It was so peaceful, so carefree, and I felt an ache inside as I thought of Marie, only 13 when she was betrothed to a man she’d never met, yanked from her beloved Austria and plunked down into the French court far from everything and everyone she loved. No wonder she adored her little hamlet so much. It truly is escapism at its best.
By the end of the day Amy and I were hobbling like old women, so stiff and sore from lugging cameras and bags and water bottles over acres of marble floors and cobbled walkways. Ryan met us at his apartment then led us to his favorite Paris restaurant where we were greeted warmly with handshakes and Frenchy kisses.
Sinking into our seats we settled in for a wondrous meal (which I will tell you about another day). The wine relaxed our aching muscles and soon our groanings were forgotten as we laughed and swapped tales about our day.
After that amazing meal (and I can’t wait to tell you about it!) our lovely waitress forced dessert upon us, not once, but THRICE! How could we say no to chocolate mousse made by her very own hands? Or to pear clafouti made from pears grown in her own backyard? And honestly, could we offend her by declining a shimmering goblet full of brandied cherries? I think not!
Hours later, sated in body and spirit, we strolled home and fell fast asleep. Good night, Versailles.
Almond Pear Clafouti
(From Epicurious)
Ingredients:
4 firm-ripe pears, peeled, cored, and sliced
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3/4 cup sliced blanched almonds
3/4 cup milk
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
3 large eggs, beaten lightly
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon almond extract (preferably pure)*
3/4 cup self-rising cake flour
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 400°F. and butter a 10-by 2-inch round (1-quart capacity) baking dish. In the dish toss the pears gently with the lemon juice and spread them evenly in the dish.
In a blender grind fine 1/2 cup of the almonds, add the milk, 6 tablespoons of the butter, the eggs, the vanilla, and the almond extract, and blend the mixture until it is smooth.
In a bowl whisk together the flour, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and a pinch of salt and stir in the milk mixture, stirring until the batter is combined well.
Pour the batter over the pears, drizzle it with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and sprinkle it with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and remaining 1/4 cup almonds.
Bake the clafouti in the middle of the oven for 40 minutes, or until it is golden brown, and let it cool on a rack for 15 minutes. Serve the clafouti warm.
by Krista | Dec 8, 2009 | Winter
An icy wind is rattling my window this morning, ready to blast me in the face and toss my hair frantically the moment I step out the door.
It reminds me a of a particularly cold, blustery day in Paris when all I wanted was a cup of something warm to wrap my fingers around.
I chose a marvelous quiche chock full of spinach, cheese and roasted chicken, and a piping hot cup of chocolat chaud – real hot chocolate with melted chocolate and foamy steamed milk. Delectable on such a cold morning. Amy found a marvy looking sandwich – smoked salmon, cream cheese and thinly sliced cucumber on a fresh baguette – and a hot cup of tea with milk. We found the perfect perch on wooden bar stools overlooking the street and had our morning dose of people-watching while we visited away and made plans for the day.
Parisian hot chocolate is so different than the lovely little packets of powder and petrified marshmallows we dump into styrofoam cups over here. Those packets are splendid in their own way. Many a camping trip, ski outing and caroling jaunt has been made bearable and delightful by their presence.
Parisian hot chocolate is made with real, dark chocolate, chopped into tiny bits that melt easily into the hot milk. It is served unsweetened and I like that. The steaming beverage is pure chocolatey, milky goodness accompanied by narrow little red envelopes of sugar for each person to sweeten to taste.
Once fortified and warmed by our bevvies and food, Amy and I bundled up again and walked to the Palais Royale to relive scenes from our beloved Audrey Hepburn movie, Charade.
They even had a little black dress exhibition!
I have a stack of dark chocolate I’ve been hoarding in my pantry. This afternoon I’ll be chopping, stirring and sipping while I dream of
Paris.
Hot Chocolate
Ingredients:
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 1/2 cups boiling water
1 1/2 cups half and half, cream, coconut milk, or milk
Directions:
- Place chocolate in a small saucepan.
- Pour boiling water over chocolate in a steady stream, stirring constantly until chocolate is melted and smooth.
- Add milk and stir until well-blended.
- Whisk continuously over medium heat, until hot. DO NOT LET BOIL or chocolate will become grainy.
- Serve immediately or cool then reheat when ready to serve.
by Krista | Dec 3, 2009 | Winter
I’ve devoted Plucky Thursdays to writing about recipes and foods that intimidate me, and I’m amused to find almost all of them are French! I’m not sure where this fear stems from, but it is also accompanied by a firm belief that all French recipes involve difficult steps or finicky cooking instructions.
How wrong I’ve been!
When my friend Kat wanted to try making vichyssoise with me, I was delighted! She tracked down a recipe for Lemon Zucchini Vichyssoise from an old issue of Gourmet. It sounded so fresh and yummy that we simply had to try it.
Since it was the end of the month and we were both broke, we pooled our resources and had just what we needed. She brought broth, leeks and zucchini and I contributed potatoes, onion and a lemon.Perfect!
Then we got down to business. Kat thinly sliced zucchini, leeks and lemons, while I chopped potato and onion, and ground white pepper in a mortar and pestle.
We cooked the leeks, onion and garlic in a large saucepan until the leeks were soft, added the potato, zucchini and broth and simmered until the potatoes were tender. This mixture was pureed and blended with the cream, lemon juice and seasonings, then chilled until we were ready to eat.
That first spoonful was a little burst of summer. Light, creamy, and silky smooth with the mellow flavors of the vegetables heightened by the wonderful zing of lemon and the sharp contrast of white pepper. I can’t wait to make it again!
Vichysoisse
Lemon Zucchini Vichyssoise
Gourmet – August 1994
Yield: Makes about 6 cups
Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less but requires additional unattended time.
Ingredients:
1 large leek (white and pale green parts only), chopped fine and washed well (about 1 1/2 cups)
3/4 cup finely chopped onion
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons olive oil
a 1/2-pound russet (baking) potato
1 1/2 pounds zucchini, sliced thin (about 4 cups)
3 cups low-salt chicken broth
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice plus additional to taste
ice water for thinning soup
lemon slices for garnish
Directions:
- In a large heavy saucepan cook leek, onion, and garlic with salt and pepper to taste in oil over moderately low heat, stirring, until leek is softened.
- Peel potato and cut into 1-inch pieces. Add potato, zucchini, and broth to leek mixture. Simmer mixture, covered, 15 minutes, or until potato is very tender.
- In a blender purée mixture in batches until very smooth, transferring as puréed to a bowl.
- Stir in cream, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste and chill soup at least 6 hours or overnight.
- Thin soup with ice water and season with additional lemon juice and salt and pepper.
- Garnish soup with lemon slices.
by Krista | Dec 2, 2009 | Compatriot Wednesday
Much to my chagrin I spent both Thanksgiving and my birthday tucked up in bed, swathed in blankets as I sipped tea, watched old movies and tried to feel better.
I was very sad to miss out on all the festivities, so it was doubly special when my lovely friends in the CEG (Culinary Experimentation Group) made up for it with a fantastic French birthday dinner. 🙂
Amy and Don brought French red wine and Toby assembled crackers and brie to tide us over while we cooked. Kat and I tackled Gourmet’s Lemon Zucchini Vichyssoise (more on that tomorrow!) and I attempted a sharp cheese sauce with a particularly stinky cheese a new friend in France sent home with me. Toby stirred while I followed the recipe to the letter. In spite of our best efforts we ended up with an amazingly awful French glue that stuck to teeth and gums and wouldn’t come off without much prying. 🙂
On the bright side, we managed not to ruin the arugula and tomato salad, a simple little dish with a lively dill and lime vinaigrette. Deborah and Kat made a lovely stove-top ratatouille with eggplant, peppers, tomatoes and onion, and Cameron smoked gorgeous scallops with his own savory blend of spices. The grand finale was Darren’s marvelously rich chocolate mousse with rum and espresso. Yowsers!!
It was a perfectly wonderful birthday! Thank you, dear friends! 🙂
by Krista | Nov 24, 2009 | Gulliver Tuesday
Next to making and sharing delicious food, traveling is my favorite pastime. I gladly give up movies, new clothes and such, and put every spare penny towards plane tickets, hotel rooms and oh so fabulous meals.
This fall I spent a couple of weeks in Paris visiting family and dear friends. One brisk afternoon my friend Amy and I donned coats and scarves and set off for the Jardin de Luxembourg, instantly slowing to a saunter as we entered the gates.
Wide, leaf-strewn gravel paths meandered past twisted old trees, around great stretches of green grass bordered in short, scalloped iron fencing. At the center of nearly every grassy place was an intricately carved marble statue, its base festooned with flowers, the lawns dotted with fallen leaves.
It was lunchtime and clusters of teenagers parked themselves on chairs, benches and even the pathways to eat their meal, laughing, talking and smoking happily in the warm fall sunshine. Here and there an artist sat in the sun, capturing the autumnal beauty in chalk or paint. Well-dressed women sat alone with their thoughts, or shared them animatedly with a friend. My favorites were the elderly couples, the women in heels, dresses and wool coats, the men in dress pants and overcoats, both wearing hats, strolling hand in hand along the winding pathways.
We emerged from the park ages later, our hearts richly satisfied with the beauties we’d seen, and walked towards the Pantheon. By this time our stomachs were crying out for victuals, and we spotted a crêperie across the road. We had the cheeriest waiter, a young fellow about 22 who behaved as though nothing pleased him more than to see his customers happy.
He seated us outside at a tiny round table and brought us flat water and our buckwheat crêpes of choice. I chose a savory one filled with white ham, Emmental cheese, tomato and fried egg, while Amy indulged her sweet tooth with Nutella, banana and coconut. The crêpes were amazing – delectably crisp yet chewy, with fresh and flavorful fillings. Ooeee, SO good on a cold day! 🙂
They were delicious, so earthy, rich and hearty that within a day or two we were positively craving them!
We found another crêperie down a twisting side street and were directed to a teensy table by the window with two round-seated wooden chairs. Within a few minutes it was packed to the gills with locals – nary a tourist to be seen – so we were quite proud of our choice. 🙂 Amy’s crêpe was filled with melty, caramelized pears and I had a buckwheat one with cheese, ham and egg topped with a fabulous green salad with a vinegary dressing that dripped down onto the crepe. Deeeelicious!
Wanting to replicate these beauties at home, I experimented with flour and milk and came up with my own version that I love. I hope you will too!
Buckwheat Crepes
Ingredients:
2 cups coconut milk
1 Tbsp sugar
1/4 tsp salt
1 Tbsp butter, melted
1/2 cup buckwheat flour
3/4 cup flour
3 large eggs
Directions:
- Mix all ingredients in non-metal bowl and let sit overnight.
- Heat non-stick pan over medium-high heat.
- Use 1/4 batter per crepe, pour into pan and tilt to cover bottom. When nearly set, flip and brown other side for 10-30 seconds. Repeat until batter is used up.
- (The first couple of crepes may be flops – mine always are – but you’ll get the hang of it in no time.)
- Spread warm (or cold!) crepes with Nutella or top with shredded ham and Swiss cheese and heat until cheese is melted.
